
Ba-wan
肉圓ròuyuán
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North · Destination
基隆
A rainy harbor town whose temple-front lanes run from tempura to bubble ice
This guide is still growing, so the map shows only the places covered so far.
Open in the mapIntroduction
Keelung is a harbor town of rain: by the 1991 to 2020 averages it gets about 194 rainy days and roughly 3,590 millimeters a year. Walk into the center under an umbrella and the busiest place is Miaokou, 'the temple front'. The courtyard of Dianji Temple has grown outward into two streets of stalls, where hot oil, steam and the smell of the sea all mix together.
The snacks here often carry a trace of somewhere else. Tempura is generally taken to come from Japanese fried fish cake; the nutritious sandwich is mostly tied to the US troops stationed in Taiwan in the 1950s and 60s and the government's flour promotion; dingbian suo comes from Fuzhou, and red-yeast meatballs point to the descendants of Fuzhou migrants. Before dawn, the Kanzaiding fish market (1:00 to 7:00) is already auctioning, and seafood is the other layer under everything.
The short list
What Keelung is famous for, most iconic first. Foods with their own guide are linked.
Nutritious sandwich (yíngyǎng sānmíngzhì)營養三明治
A long deep-fried bun filled with ham, tomato, cucumber and a braised egg and dressed with mayonnaise, also called a 'salad boat'; during the 2020 Dragon Boat holiday more than 200 queue numbers were reportedly handed out.
Dingbian suo (dǐngbiān suō)鼎邊趖
A Fuzhou snack in which rice batter is cooked against the hot rim of the pot into thin sheets, then simmered in soup with shrimp, meat gravy, mushrooms and bamboo shoot; often written 鼎邊銼.
Miaokou tempura (tiānfùluó)廟口天婦羅
Taiwan's 'tempura' is a fried fish-paste cake related to Japanese satsuma-age, not battered shrimp or vegetables; Chinese Wikipedia lists three tempura shops in Miaokou.
Bubble ice (pàopao bīng)泡泡冰
Ice and toppings stirred by hand in a bowl until creamy, somewhere between ice cream and slush; Keelung's is the best known.
Red-yeast ba-wan紅糟肉圓
The MICHELIN Guide notes that where descendants of Fuzhou migrants live, as in Keelung, ba-wan are filled with red-yeast pork and look 'white with a blush of red'.
Dish guide
Harbor seafood港邊海鮮
The Kanzaiding fish market runs from 1:00 to 7:00 every morning, Heping Island has a tourist fish market with stir-fry restaurants serving the fresh catch, and Miaokou serves butter crab; a squid season festival marks the August catch of small squid.
Thick soups: bean-thread and swordfish豆簽羹與旗魚羹
Chinese Wikipedia lists bean-thread, swordfish and shrimp thick soups among Miaokou's soup stalls.
On the table
Dishes with their own guide that are most tied to Keelung.

肉圓ròuyuán
Day and night
Night markets, market halls and food streets in Keelung.

A temple courtyard that grew into a street of tempura, dingbian suo and bubble ice
Where to wander
Districts and towns to eat your way through.
District
Ren'ai is Keelung's downtown, and Miaokou night market is here, about a 10-minute walk from Keelung Station. Dianji Temple on Ren 3rd Road and the food street on Ai 4th Road run together, with nutritious sandwiches, dingbian suo, tempura and bubble ice all packed into a few blocks.
For another side of Keelung, come in the middle of the night. The Kanzaiding fish market on Xiao 1st Road runs from 1:00 to 7:00 every morning, and the city's tourism site suggests 2:00 to 3:00 as the liveliest moment, when you can watch the fresh catch being auctioned.
Neighborhood
Heping Island lies just outside Keelung Harbor in Zhongzheng District, separated from the mainland by about 75 meters of water and joined to it by the Heping Bridge. A tourist fish market beside the Bachimen fishing harbor sells the day's catch, and stir-fry restaurants on site serve the fresh seafood.
The island has a layered past: the Spanish built the San Salvador fort here and the Qing knew it as Sheliao. After lunch, walk the shoreline of Heping Island Park, where the sea has carved the 'tofu rocks' and a broad wave-cut platform.
Food history
Keelung has long been the gateway to northern Taiwan. English Wikipedia says the Spanish established a fort here in the 1620s, the Qing opened it as a trading port in 1863, and by 1916 its trade exceeded Tamsui's and Kaohsiung's. Miaokou itself grew out of the forecourt of Dianji Temple. Chinese Wikipedia gives two dates for the temple, which enshrines the deity Kaizhang Shengwang: 1875 in its Dianji Temple article and 1873 in its Miaokou article. The temple article says the Lin family of Banqiao donated land on Yutian Street to build it, and local gentry later moved it to its present site on Ren 3rd Road. The Miaokou article, quoting local elders' records, says vendors gathered in the courtyard by the end of the Japanese period, and after the war the city government registered the stalls along Ren 3rd Road, which joined Ai 4th Road to form today's L-shaped food street.
One media account ties the nutritious sandwich's name to the US troops in Taiwan during the Korean and Vietnam wars and to the government's push for flour and wheat foods from the 1950s, which linked bread with 'nutrition'. Origin stories like this are mostly word of mouth and press retelling, and none is settled. Bubble ice is best known in Keelung; Chinese Wikipedia, citing a 1986 newspaper report, says students from National Taiwan Ocean University and other schools pooled money to rent a stall from a Miaokou vendor and worked there to pay their tuition.
Through the year
Months are a rough window, and the weather moves them from year to year.
Season: Aug
Chinese Wikipedia records that August is the peak catch for small squid (suǒguǎn) and that Keelung holds a squid season festival then; the activities and dates change from year to year.
Plan your trip
Commuter trains run from Taipei to Keelung Station about every 15 to 20 minutes, and non-stop buses take around 35 minutes in good traffic (Wikivoyage). Miaokou is a walk of about 10 minutes from the station (Keelung City tourism site). Check current timetables.
In pictures

Fried chicken rolls cut into pieces on a blue-and-white floral plate with sweet red sauce, from Keelung's Miaokou Night Market
Photo: Heeheemalu · CC BY-SA 4.0 (opens in a new tab)We are still researching Keelung: its markets, restaurants and a food itinerary will come in a later update. In the meantime, these complete guides are close by.
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Keep exploring
Work in progressLast updated Oct 12, 2026What’s new
20 dishes documented · more on the way